How to help spathiphyllum if the leaves begin to turn yellow?
Unpretentious, easy-to-care spathiphyllums can be found in apartments and offices, they decorate public buildings and plant greenery in educational institutions. Without any tweaks and labor on the part of the owner, in response to normal care, the spathiphyllum flower gives off new lanceolate foliage and produces peduncles with a white, flag-like or veiled bracts.
Top dressing and transplanting - the necessary care for the spathiphyllum flower
Yellowness on the leaves of a recently healthy green bush appears quickly and can be a sign of a variety of problems. Due to the similarity of symptoms, even experienced hobbyists rarely manage to immediately find the reason for this plant behavior. But it is impossible to hesitate, since the death of foliage entails a general weakening of the spathiphyllum, and sometimes it can signal irreversible putrefactive processes on the roots.
Most often, the source of problems with spathiphyllum is in the care of the flower, or rather, in the lack of attention to the plant.
If the plant has bloomed for a long time and abundantly, yellowing leaves can mean fatigue of the bush, which has wasted all the strength and available nutrients. In this case, the foliage from the lower tiers first begins to experience a similar deficit, evenly changes color, and then withers.
Top dressing can help the plant, and if the yellowed spathiphyllum has not been transplanted for a long time, then transfer it to a new, looser pot with nutritious loose soil.
In the future, in order to avoid similar problems, you need to feed the plant twice a year and, if necessary, in the spring, transplant the bush into a pot in size.
Lighting for spathiphyllum
Spathiphyllum turns yellow when it is in uncomfortable conditions for a long time. Most often, growers make the mistake of exposing the pot to direct sunlight. Although spathiphyllum is very photophilous, scorching, especially the summer sun, becomes the cause of yellowness and even burns of leaf plates. But with a lack of sun, spathiphyllum reacts with a slowdown in growth and pallor of the leaves.
If in summer the main enemy of the plant is the bright sun, then in winter excessive dryness of the air is destructive for the spathiphyllum.
When the pot is located near heating appliances, it is unlikely that the aboveground part and yellow ones will fade away. Yellowing and then dying off of the leaf begins from the tip, gradually spreading and occupying most of the leaf plate. As a result, the plant weakens, stops flowering ahead of time and may die.
Therefore, wanting to see the plant healthy and beautiful, you can:
- remove spathiphyllum away from the battery;
- put a container of water next to it;
- use a humidifier;
- use a spray bottle to spray the plant.
In any case, the plant will respond with lush greenery. Slightly damaged leaves return to their previous color, and leaf plates that have begun to dry are best removed so that they do not become a breeding ground for harmful fungi and pests.
Spathiphyllum turns yellow due to a violation of the irrigation schedule
If the leaves turn yellow in spathiphyllum, and the color change begins from the edges of the leaf plate, on which a dried black border forms, this may be a flower's reaction to a violation watering regime:
- With a lack of moisture, the earth dries up and does not provide the plant with proper nutrition.
- Excessively moistened soil, especially at a rather low indoor temperature, is a serious risk of developing rot and fungi parasitizing on spathiphyllum.
It is optimal if the substrate is constantly wet, but moisture stagnation should not be allowed.
Therefore, in winter, the intensity and frequency of watering is reduced. And in summer, when the demand for moisture increases, to reduce evaporation, the soil is mulched with pebbles or sphagnum moss.
Deficiency of trace elements - the cause of yellowing of spathiphyllum
What to do if spatiffillum leaves turn yellow entirely? Most often, this symptom can be considered a sign of a lack of nutrition or a deficiency of certain elements in the soil. An ambulance in this case is feeding with complex fertilizer for indoor plants. If the roots of the flower are completely entwined with an earthen ball, then it is better to immediately transplant the plant, and, if necessary, divide a large bush.
Spathiphyllum is very sensitive to magnesium deficiency. Deficiency of this element leads to stunted growth and lethargy of the plant. In this case, the leaves of spathiphyllum turn yellow in such a way that the veins remain green, and the tissues between them become yellow or brown. Such bushes are fed with magnesium sulfate.
Pests and diseases of spathiphyllum
The yellowness of the foliage is not only a consequence of improper care of the spathiphyllum flower. Plants can be affected by pests and diseases, no less dangerous than lack of nutrition or root flooding.
Among pests that damage plants, mealybugs, spider mites and thrips are more common. In this case, after identifying the source of the hazard:
- the bushes are treated with insecticides;
- in the presence of soil pests, they are transplanted and fed.
As a preventive measure, it is reasonable to take only disinfected soil, which will help protect the bush from infection with harmful fungi.
It is possible to talk about a disease of fungal origin in a situation when the lower leaves of the spathiphyllum turned yellow, began to dry out, and brown spots, growing, occupy the foliage in the neighborhood. If you do not take urgent measures, the disease will seize the stems and roots, causing irreparable damage to the plant.
In this case, the infected parts of the plant will have to be cut off and treated with a fungicide. It will be useful to inspect the roots and the shortened stem, since the dispersal of the fungus may be accompanied by the reproduction of putrefactive bacteria and damage to these parts of the plant.
Spathiphyllum is not at all capricious, but only a healthy plant that receives regular competent care can please the grower with bright greenery and abundant flowering.
Hello, there are flowers left from the old owners, I found something on the Internet, but I can't figure it out. Please help me determine the name and draw up a care scheme for them.
This is one of the indoor varieties of milkweed. The flower is picky about lighting, with a lack of it, it begins to stretch, and the leaves fade. He loves warmth and tolerates dry air well, so he does not need spraying, except in order to refresh the leaves and wash off the dust. Watering must be done carefully, avoiding stagnation of moisture in the soil, otherwise the roots can rot. Milkweed drafts are dangerous.
This one also
And this is a very old Kalanchoe, it has already grown and even released the roots on the branches. In the spring, the bush can be trimmed, then it will release side branches and become more compact and lush. Read more about Kalanchoe care here https://myvilla.decorexpro.com/en/kalankhoye-cvetushhiy/, and how to properly crop, you can read here https://myvilla.decorexpro.com/en/kak-obrezat-kalankhoye/.
There was also a spathiphyllum, but the flower clearly needs help and treatment. Help, please, I want to try to save the flower. And this is how almost all the leaves look.
Try replanting the shrub into fresh soil. Be sure to check the roots, perhaps the disease comes from there. It is also necessary to treat with a fungicide and remove damaged leaves.
Thank you very much.
Hello! Please help me to deal with the issue of yellowing of leaves in spathiphyllum. The leaves began to turn yellow. Can a flower be saved?
It is definitely worth trying, whatever the reason, and there can be many of them. If only the tips are yellow and dry out, then most often it is from heat and dry air. Do not keep the pot near the radiator.
Yellow leaves from the lower tier of an old plant indicate that it lacks nutrients and needs additional feeding. The most dangerous case is if the yellowness spreads as a spot on the leaf, quickly turns brown and captures all new leaves. Then look for the reason deeper, in the roots. I would take a bush out of the pot and examine them, suddenly there is already part of it rotted. If you find something, cut it off, change the soil, and treat the flower itself with a fungicide. Feed up a couple of weeks after transplanting. I saved my spathiphyllum so much in the summer, when I left it to my husband, and he watered so hard, and the bush almost rotted away until I returned.
Hello! Transplanted spathiphyllum 10 days ago, dropped the leaves on day 3. Thought oklemaetsya, but the leaves began to turn yellow. When transplanting, the roots were normal, but I treated them with Kornevin. I put the drainage in the pot. Please tell me what to do. I attach a photo of the flower and the substrate. I put it on the window to take a picture.
Composition
As far as I understand, there is only peat in the soil that you purchased? But the earth, bark, sand, charcoal - no? Then it is not surprising that the flower disappears. Undoubtedly, peat is one of the important components of the soil mixture for spathiphyllum, but not the only one. For a flower, you need to purchase a special substrate marked "for spathiphyllum" or a universal mixture "for aroids" and transplant it again. You can also make loose and nutritious soil yourself by mixing peat, charcoal, humus, deciduous soil, and sand in equal parts.
Thank you very much, Olga! I dug it out yesterday and put it in the water for now. Today I will buy a new soil. And in this I saw mold yesterday. Filled it, probably.
Flower
Hello! After the transshipment at the spathiphyllum, half of the leaves turned yellow, it stands in the same place where it stood before the transshipment, on the windowsill. Tell me what is the problem with the flower?
And I planted it in a larger pot, and not a little more, I know that it might not bloom because of this, but I decided to see if everything would be okay .. but this is how the leaves turn yellow. Previously, it was also like this, but on the 1st sheet, and not so massively.
Hello, my spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow from the center to the edges. Can you tell me how to deal with this and the reason? And he has not bloomed for a long time (already several months). Thank you in advance.
Perhaps the problem is "fasting". Feed the flower with fertilizer, you can transplant it into new soil, if this procedure has not been carried out for a long time.
Thanks Olga. I transplanted a flower about a year and a half ago, but did not feed it, probably for a whole year. Tomorrow I'll start feeding))
Good day! At a very lush, flowering plant, the leaves began to rapidly turn completely yellow (5-6 leaves in a week), the soil has not been changed for a long time, watering is frequent, but there is a battery nearby, tell me, please, what to do?
Frequent watering is high humidity. The top layer of soil dries out quickly due to the nearby battery. Plant in extreme conditions !!! Immediately transplant into a new soil, while checking the condition of the root system.Trim any diseased roots if necessary. Disinfect the remains. After transplanting, remove the plants in a comfortable environment. Spill lightly with iodine solution (3 drops of iodine in 1 liter of water)
Got it, thank you very much! And how to disinfect? Do I need to fertilize it with something?
A solution of potassium permanganate is used for disinfection. It is suitable for both soil and plant. How iodine solution works as fertilizer. Next, you need to look at the state of the plant. I usually use a compound fertilizer for indoor flowering plants.
Good day!
Once again I am watching your channel, and I can not find the reasons for the fading of my spathiphyllum.
Whenever I try to breed these flowers, the story is always the same, the leaves turn black, turn yellow, the flower disappears.
Not in the sun, not dry, not flooded. Help me to understand.
By the way, it bloomed only when it was brought from the store.
It was the same for me last year in the summer: the leaves first began to turn yellow, and then turned black. In general, there are only three young leaves in the center of the bush, the rest are gone. I thought it was time to throw it away, but then I decided to try to save it. I cut off everything that wilted (leaf petioles almost to the root). She took it out of the pot, washed it, found rotten roots, although it didn't seem to fill it either. I cut it off, washed it with a solution of potassium permanganate - I just had nothing else. Better, of course, with a fungicide. I completely changed the land, even bought a new pot. A month he stood somewhere, I watered a couple of times with liquid fertilizer, and once with water from the aquarium. And then he began to give young leaves and bloomed in winter. Try it too. By the way, I noticed that the foliage turns black from the draft. I had to remove my second flower from the window, which I open for airing.